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Tribune News Network
Doha
dunhill celebrated the technical specificity of menswear with British tailoring traditions explored and experimented with a new take on deconstruction as it unveiled autumn-winter 2020 collection.
The old guard and the avant-garde are both celebrated in the latest dunhill collection, where tradition and subversion work together in a distinctly British way.
Leitmotifs from previous collections reach a culmination in the selection, becoming a part of the fabric of dunhill.
The introduction of pegged trousers in felt and eel skin, a nod to the new romantics, provided a more relaxed lower half to the silhouette. Silk knit neckpieces, strong structured shoulders and high break jackets provide a new, sinuous elegance in the upper half.
Mark Weston, creative director of dunhill, said: “dunhill is not one thing, it’s many. “This is my fifth show at the house and there feels like a certain kind of summing up in this collection. I am fascinated with The Blitz club, particularly Homer Sykes’ pictures of it. It was a place of freedom and individuality, a mix of cultures: performers, the establishment and art.”
He added, “The man in this collection is a cross between the preppy and the new wave, the establishment and the anti-establishment – it is not about making purely singular characters. Instead, it is about taking all those elements and putting them together, reconstructing and recontextualising.
“I approached the collection in terms of process – dismantling it and putting it together in a different way. It is also about how to build and engineer clothing. It is a mindset that is not lofty, but it is exciting in its technicality. In many ways, it is a new view of deconstruction.”
This is the third show with music provided by Moses Boyd, collaborating with the poet and musician James Massiah. Their work personify and amplify the codes of creativity at the house. Both are valued members of the dunhill community.
Doha
dunhill celebrated the technical specificity of menswear with British tailoring traditions explored and experimented with a new take on deconstruction as it unveiled autumn-winter 2020 collection.
The old guard and the avant-garde are both celebrated in the latest dunhill collection, where tradition and subversion work together in a distinctly British way.
Leitmotifs from previous collections reach a culmination in the selection, becoming a part of the fabric of dunhill.
The introduction of pegged trousers in felt and eel skin, a nod to the new romantics, provided a more relaxed lower half to the silhouette. Silk knit neckpieces, strong structured shoulders and high break jackets provide a new, sinuous elegance in the upper half.
Mark Weston, creative director of dunhill, said: “dunhill is not one thing, it’s many. “This is my fifth show at the house and there feels like a certain kind of summing up in this collection. I am fascinated with The Blitz club, particularly Homer Sykes’ pictures of it. It was a place of freedom and individuality, a mix of cultures: performers, the establishment and art.”
He added, “The man in this collection is a cross between the preppy and the new wave, the establishment and the anti-establishment – it is not about making purely singular characters. Instead, it is about taking all those elements and putting them together, reconstructing and recontextualising.
“I approached the collection in terms of process – dismantling it and putting it together in a different way. It is also about how to build and engineer clothing. It is a mindset that is not lofty, but it is exciting in its technicality. In many ways, it is a new view of deconstruction.”
This is the third show with music provided by Moses Boyd, collaborating with the poet and musician James Massiah. Their work personify and amplify the codes of creativity at the house. Both are valued members of the dunhill community.
